Crater Lake Guide

Crater Lake has been on Andrew’s bucket list for most of his life and on mine since he told me about it nearly ten years ago (Andrew is my husband by the way). Growing up on the East Coast, my family vacations usually meant trips to Las Vegas or Florida, so Andrew definitely has more experience with National Parks and what I call “adventure travel.”

We first tried to embark on our Crater Lake journey back in 2020… but between the pandemic and wildfires, we were literally stopped in our tracks. I figured the trip just wasn’t meant to be. Then, I was invited to a travel writers’ conference this year in Medford, Oregon, and thought…maybe this was our chance? Once I realized Medford was the nearest city to Crater Lake, the excitement kicked in.

Crater Lake is less than two hours from Medford. We stayed about half an hour away our first night (more on that later), but as soon as we checked into the hotel, we jumped back into the rental car to finally see the lake. I was nervous - half expecting some new obstacle to stop us again. Seeing Crater Lake had become a full-blown mission.

When we arrived, the sky was overcast with a light drizzle. The lake, while massive and beautiful, wasn’t the brilliant blue I had seen in photos - but it didn’t matter. As we turned a corner, a rainbow appeared on the other side of the lake. It felt like a sign that we were at the right place at exactly the right time.

The gloomy weather may have kept the crowds away that afternoon because it felt like we had the lake all to ourselves. After snapping about a million photos and exploring a bit, we wandered through the gift shop, already eager to return the next day.

The next day we started at the visitor center and watched the short introductory film to learn about Crater Lake’s history. In short: about 7,700 years ago, Mount Mazama, a massive volcano, erupted and collapsed inward, forming a huge caldera. Over time, rain and snow filled the basin, creating the deep, crystal-clear lake we see today. Because it has no inlets or outlets, the lake stays remarkably pure and brilliantly blue.

Feeling like newly minted Crater Lake experts, we set out to explore the rim and were happy to see that the lake was that beautiful blue we had been promised.  We stopped at almost every scenic overlook for a photo (or ten). Then Andrew somehow convinced me to hike down to the lake…which, after some research, I learned is no small feat. The only trail that leads to the water is the Cleetwood Cove Trail, a steep, strenuous 1.1-mile path that drops 700 feet through a series of long switchbacks. The reward? Reaching the water’s edge, where you can swim, dangle your feet in the water, or just sit while you muster up the courage for the climb back up. I’ll admit it was worth it - but next time, I’ll train in advance!

(**Please note: the Cleetwood Cove Trail is currently closed for renovations for the next few years - but trust me, it was strenuous!)

After our hike, we finally checked into Crater Lake Lodge - and it was everything I want a lodge to be. It had a cozy lobby, a lakeside patio (perfect for sipping wine), and even a fireplace - replete with rocking chairs. Bonus: we were upgraded to a lake-view room, so the stunning blue lake was always in sight.  There are other places to stay near Crater Lake including the Cabins at Mazama Village and the Mazama Campground.  My advice is to book far in advance since it gets busy there.

Dinner at the lodge’s Dining Room was lovely - comfort food paired with Oregon wine. Afterward, we took a bottle of Cabernet out to the patio for some stargazing. It was pure magic. I’m oddly obsessed with the Milky Way, and seeing it stretch across the dark sky made me a very happy “camper” — of course by camping I mean a comfy bed and indoor plumbing.

The next morning, we enjoyed a hearty breakfast at the lodge before saying goodbye — but not before taking a few last looks at that mesmerizing lake. Somehow, it seemed to get even more blue every time we looked at it. Crater Lake has that effect — it pulls you in and makes it impossible to look away.

Union Creek Resort:

I found Union Creek Resort completely by accident, and it ended up being one of the most memorable parts of the trip…not to mention home to the best meal of this Oregon adventure.

All of the lodging at Crater Lake was fully booked on our arrival night, so I looked for the nearest place with availability (that also didn’t look scary). That’s how I stumbled upon Union Creek Resort, a charming spot listed on the National Register of Historic Places. For reasons that still don’t quite make sense (my brain works in mysterious ways), I booked a two-bedroom cabin for just the two of us.  I guess I figured that being in the middle of the forest, we’d be “safer” with extra space?

Our cabin turned out to be a piece of history itself, having once served as the home of the Timber Management Assistant back in the 1930s. It was cozy yet spacious, with a living room, a full kitchen, complete with the slightly terrifying feeling of being tucked deep in the woods.  The resort had plenty of modern comforts, including a small gift shop, and store to stock up on cabin/camping needs, and best of all - Beckie’s Café.

Beckie’s has been serving guests since 1926, and I fully understand why it is so beloved. We stopped in for a fantastic breakfast during our stay.  I had a delicious breakfast sandwich, and even though dessert isn’t usually on my morning menu, we couldn’t pass up their famous pies, baked fresh every day. We tried two slices (which showed great restraint since we wanted three): Pecan Pie and Boysenberry Pie, one of them à la mode. Honestly, it might have been the best pie I’ve ever had.

If you’re heading to Crater Lake National Park, Union Creek Resort makes a perfect stopover - just about 30 minutes away, steeped in history, surrounded by forest, and filled with small-town charm.

Rogue River Gorge:

After breakfast at Union Creek Resort and an unsuccessful attempt to explore the trails behind the hotel (long story short…it was a little too outdoorsy for me), we realized we could simply walk over to the Rogue River Gorge instead. Now this was much more my speed!

If you’re wondering, a gorge is basically a deep, narrow valley carved by a river over thousands of years.  Think of it as nature’s version of a canyon, only smaller and often lush with vegetation.

The paved loop trail is just about a quarter mile and packed with beauty. Along the way, there are informative signs explaining the geology and history of the area, as well as several viewpoints where you can watch the powerful Rogue River crash through the narrow chasm. The view was more stunning at every turn.

It is a lovely, accessible walk through the forest and along the river - great for bird watching, photography, or simply taking in the scenery. We even saw a few adorable dogs on leash enjoying the trail. While the Rogue River is famous for its salmon runs, steelhead fishing, and whitewater rafting in other sections, here at the Gorge, it’s all about slowing down and taking in the view.

Natural Bridge:

On our way to Crater Lake, we noticed signs for something called the Natural Bridge and made a mental note to stop there on the way back to Medford. Honestly, I had no idea what a “natural bridge” even was…I pictured some kind of log stretched over a stream, Dirty Dancing-style. Turns out, that is not what a natural bridge is at all!

The Natural Bridge is actually where the Upper Rogue River disappears into an ancient lava tube and rushes underground before reemerging downstream - literally forming a natural land bridge. It is one of those places where photos can’t quite capture the experience. You have to feel it: the power of the water roaring beneath your feet, the ground trembling faintly as the river forces its way through the rock. It was wild!

The short trail to the viewpoint is beautifully maintained, with informational signs explaining how the lava tube was formed and benches where you can sit and soak it all in. The trailhead is just off the main road, with plenty of parking and easy access. It’s a quick stop - but one you’ll remember long after your trip.

I know it sounds cliché, but some places truly have to be experienced to be understood.  All of my senses were employed during this trip.  Staying deep in the forest at Union Creek – smelling the pine trees, and the only sound being the breeze through the trees and the rushing of the river, and then the startling blue water of Crater Lake was unlike anything I’ve ever seen.

If you ever get the chance, I cannot recommend a visit to southern Oregon enough. This trip not only deepened my budding love of nature but also sparked a new goal: to visit every National Park. Five down… many more to go.